söndag 22 februari 2015

1886 overskirt

I have wanted to make an overskirt for my mid 1880's dress for a while. When the Historical Sew Monthly challenge #2 turned out to be blue, I finally got a long to do it. The problem was that there are so many beautiful over skirts in fashion plates, so first I could not even decide want I wanted. Then I had to drape it. That was not made easier by the fact that I did not want to cut the fabric too much before deciding how to drape it, but it is harder to test drape too large pieces of fabric... Finally thou I found a design I liked. It is an 1886 overskirt, highly asymetrical as was popular then. In the pictures today it does not look quite as I thougth it would, but here it is anyway. It is worn with a skirt, bodice and hat I made earlier, from the Truly Victorian patterns TV261-R, TV460 and TV550, and over the TV101 Petticoat with wire bustle, a chemise, and a corset.

Thanks to Olof for the nice pictures, taken in Gamla Linköping. 

The back turned out a bit odd. I might have to sew down the burnouse pleats a bit to make it look better, now they seem to just stack up in a single heap.

We also took some photos of the Talma Wrap I made a few years ago. It was very nice and warm in the cold weather! It has a fitted back and a loose front. When I made it I did not think I would have much use for it, but with the unreliable summers here (and this winter photo session...) it has been very useful.

So, for the HSM:
Challenge #2: Blue
What the item is: 1886 Asymetrical overskirt
Fabric: A striped wool with nice drape, probably wool-polyester mix.
Pattern: None, draped with inspiration from lots of fashion plates.
Year: 1886
How historically accurate is it? Overall look is reasonably OK, even if it did not turn out quite as I wanted. Minus for syntetic in fabric. I am not sure about wearing an overskirt that is not matched to bodice at all. Maybe 75%?
Hours to complete: Lots and lots of time to try to decide how I wanted it to look, and then figuring out how to drape it. About two hour actually sewing (mostly for hand hemming all edges).
First worn: For photo session today.
Total cost: Fabric from stash. Maybe about 200 SEK, that is about 20 Euro?

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