Looking back at 2015

At the beginning of the new year, I will start classically by summing up the last year. Last was very productive for me sewing-wise. This was due to two things. The first was that I joined the Historical Sew Monthly (HSM), which meant a deadline each month. As I have only been sewing at vacations before, this meant that I got a lot more sewing done. The second thing was that I got in touch with some more historical sewing people here in Linköping. As sewing together is much more fun than being nerdy on my own, more people to sew with meant that I was inspired to keep up the speed in sewing. In all, I managed to get the first nine HSM challenges done. Then, my project did not fit the challenges.

So, what have I done? I started a new time period, Edwardian, with the practical 1905 outfit (that turned out to be not so practical, as the heavy underskirt pinched my stomach through the corset, the hat is large, and I could not dress myself as there was hooks and eyes at the back that I could not reach.) Still, I liked it. This project involved making an Edwardian corset (HSM challenge #1 foundations) and corset cover, an underskirt (HSM#3 Stashbusting), a skirt and a blouse (HSM #5 Practicality). 

For the turn of the century days I went to with some friends in August, I could not resist making a more upper class version, with a lace blouse (thrifted), reshaping the hat, and making a bolero and belt. I am really happy with the shape I managed to get by the use of lots of bust and hip padding.

Next big project was the 1860's afternoon dress from the book Patterns of Fashion - another new time period for me. Surprisingly, despite the large crinoline this turned out to be one of my most comfortable dresses. I modified my 16th century farthingale to get it more bell shaped instead of cone shaped. Then, there is the skirt, bodice, and undersleeves, and decorating the bonnet. (This was HSM #6 Out of your comfort zone)

In September, I started the last big project of the year - a ca 1880-1890 walking dress from a fashion plate. This will be a sneak peak, as I have not yet blogged it. As the dress neared finishing, I made the vest a bit steampunk by using large hook for fastening, as I was going to wear the dress at my Steampunk larp. I am currently making a period correct vest as well, so I can choose. This outfit consists of a skirt with soutache, and a coat with a false vest attached.

I also made some smaller stuff, to complement dresses I already had.
An over skirt and a new hat for the 1886 dress (This was HSM #2: Blue and #4 "War and Peace")

A "gröntröja", green bodice, for my mother's Gagnef folk costume. (HSM #8 "Heritage and Heirlooms")

Two Tudor caps, constructed in two different ways.  HSM #7 Accesorise.

Crazy stuff: A 18th century inspired dress in grocery store paper bags for a competition (sadly, I did not win anything...)

I also did a remake of the striped 1880's bodice, by adding a false vest and blouse. This way, it got a bit bigger (much needed!) and also a bit more fancy. I also added lots of trimming to the hat belonging to the same dress (HSM #9  Colour Challenge Brown).

After this year, I can confidently say that I have overcome my fear of making button-holes, after making a shirt and two bodices with buttons! I have also arranged a steampunk larp and a historical costume "fika", won a costume competition award, and been to at least five19th century markets or gatherings, so this have been a busy year for the historical costuming part of me! Plans for next year will come in next post.

Gröntröja for folk costume

For the "Heritage and Heirlooms" theme of Historical Sew Monthly in August, I decided I wanted to make a "gröntröja" for my mother, to wear with her folk costume from Gagnef in Dalecarlia.

The different folk costumes in Sweden have a very varying degree of historical accuracy. Some was recreated or even invented in the 1970's when folk costume went popular, and is only loosely based on some remaining piece of clothing. In other regions "local costume" (as opposed to more generic fashionable dress) lived on very strong, so the folk costumes from these regions are much closer to what someone in say the late 19th century would have worn. The Gagnef costume is an example of this more historical type of folk costume. Therefore, I wanted to make this gröntröja, but more as a piece of historical clothing than as modern folk costume. Gröntröja means something like "green bodice". It was worn when a warmer outer layer was needed, and was worn only for big festive occasions such as weddings.

I based my gröntröja on a gröntröja from one in a museum, from late 19th century. I did try to make it look about right, but I have not tried to recreate it exactly.

 And the heritage? My grandmothers grandmother lived in Gagnef, and she was wearing the traditional dress all her life.

In these pictures, my mother wear the gröntröja with her modern folk costume. I suspect that the length of the skirt is an example of something that was modernized when the traditional dress was made into folk costume, but I still think that it is a beautiful costume.

close up of embroidery

The facts for HSM:

What the item is: a gröntröja ("green bodice") for folk costume from Gagnef, Dalecarlia, Sweden.

The Challenge: #8: Heirlooms and Heritage

Fabric: way too coarse wool, cotton for lining

Pattern: none, based on a standard bodice block and adapted

Year: late 19th century

Notions: Hooks and eyes, poly thread

How historically accurate is it? 80% perhaps? The cut is ok, and the constructions is like what I could see on the photograph of the garment I based this on. Also, machine embroidery is correct for this garment :-) But the polyester thread and the cotton lining is not right, and the fabric is way too coarse (I did not feel like paying something like 800 kr/meter (100 $/meter) for fine quality wool).

Hours to complete: Not less than 10 h.

First worn: for photo session last Saturday.

Total cost: Maybe 150 kr?

Why is it heritage and heirloom? My grandmothers grandmother lived in Gagnef, and she was wearing the traditional dress all her life.